Visiting Langhe; Where to Stay Guide on Hotels, Bed & Breakfast, Relais Chateaux, and more

by Amanda

Here is a quick list of my favorite places to stay in Langhe from easy Bed & Breakfasts, to high end castles and Relais Chateaux.

Village : Corneliano d’Alba

Parco Reala

Close enough to the town of Alba and in a strategic central location to all the fun in Langhe, while it is nestled in the peaceful fields of the Roero winemaking region. This family has 2 properties, a beautiful villa for rent for groups of 6 in the hills of the Monferrato area close to the bustling town of Castagnole delle Lanze, Canelli, and Neive. While Parco Reala is located strategically in the area of Roero, a stone’s throw to the epicenter of the white truffles, Alba. In this villa they have 4 very spacious rooms with a small living area as well as a kitchenette. There is a spa on location, a full sized swimming pool and plenty of outdoor space to relax amongst nature. You probably wish you booked a longer stay once you arrive to this oasis.

https://www.parcoreala.com/home/

Hotel Castello di Sinio

Village : Sinio

Hotel Castello di Sinio

This beautiful XII century castle perched on top of the town Sinio, is strategically located in-between the famous Barolo and Barbaresco wine areas, making it convenient to visit both areas. Here you will be greeted by a warm and welcoming staff and one of the area’s most amazing host Denise Pardini. The rooms have been tastefully furnished keeping in mind the original castle’s architecture, but with all the comforts of a luxury hotel. 

https://www.hotelcastellodisinio.com/en/index.php

Village : Alba

Villa La Favorita

This absolutely beautiful 19th century country house located right outside of the town center. Is a perfect oasis of country living and relaxation centrally located in the center of two world class wine regions. Besides the house being stunning the hosts who run the property are some of the sweetest most accomodating people I know. A plus about this property is they also have e-bikes for their guests use.

https://villalafavorita-alba.it/

Village : La Morra

Corte Gondina Boutique Hotel

Built in the beginning of the 1900’s located in the heart of the small hill top town La Morra in the Barolo wine area. You will be greeted with all the comforts of home in this quaint hotel. 

Walking distance to many bars and restaurants, this hotel is in an ideal location. 

https://www.cortegondina.it/en/

Village : Canelli

Relais Chateaux Villa del Borgo

This Relais was once an ancient monastery that was built in the historical part of the city Canelli in the XVIII century. This small hotel is perfectly located with stunning hill top views as well as all the luxuries that a Relais Chateaux has to offer.  Patrizia is an amazing host with a great eye for details and splendid hospitality. 

https://relaisvilladelborgo.com/en/

Village : Guarene

Relais Chateaux Castello di Guarene 

This palace was built in the 18th century by an ambitious nobleman Carlo Giacinto Roero. Overlooking the city of Alba on the left bank of the river Tanaro you will find this castle located in the Roero winemaking area. The hotel has been tastefully furnished giving you the feel of royalty. 

https://www.castellodiguarene.com/en/

Al Palazzo Rosso

Village : Neive

Al Palazzo Rosso

A small and well done renovation of an old historical house located in the center of Neive village. It is here the small hotel of 4 rooms all tastefully designed with all the comforts of home. You will be welcomed by the fabulous Benedetta who is kind and gentle, and has an eye for modern style. Take a look in her little shop for some funky pieces. They also have a small quaint wine bar “La Cantinetta” to enjoy a glass of some of the smaller local wine producers.

https://al-palazzo-rosso.it 

Village : Treiso

Agriturismo Dai Grésy

This small luxury hotel is immersed in the vine covered hills of the Barbaresco wine area. Here you will find the simple luxuries of the countryside, in a beautifully restored country house. 

https://www.daigresy.com

Village : Castagnole delle Lanze

Dimora Cortese

Located in the sleepy center of Castagnole delle Lanze, this 19th century mansion has been beautifully restored. 

https://www.dimoracortese.it/en

Village : Costigliole d’Asti

Villa Pattono

This gorgeous villa located in the center of vine covered rolling hills, for a peacefully and relaxing stay. Equipped with a helicopter pad, for easy and fast transportation. 

https://www.villapattono.com 

The Ultimate Barolo Masterclass - Wine tasting guide to Alba, Barolo

by Amanda

Intro:

Given the intense nature of the intricate details of Barolo, I have decided to give readers the option of the amount of depth they wish to seek out.

Where there is more information on this post, you will find at the end of the initial explanations to help every reader get the most out of the Barolo area for every level of interest.

The big B. Barolo

Barolo a small wine region just to the west of the town of Alba. This area is made up of 11 villages and takes its name after the Barolo village, located in the heart of the Barolo appellation. While the soil structure of Barolo area is quite complex they can be broken down into 5 distinct types of soils that are associated with their villages and sub-zones.

The 5 main districts: 

• Serralunga 

• Castiglione Falletto and Grinzane Cavour

• Barolo and Novello

• La Morra and Verduno

• Monforte 

the soil structures of Barolo defined by color.

Origins of soil from rocks: 3 types of rocks are the base of each soil structure making each wine region so unique. 

Here is a breakdown of rocks with examples. 

igneous rocks 

cooled magma (examples granite)
e.g. granite, basalt, dolerite, gabbro, syenite, porphyry

sedimentary rocks - what we find in Barolo, Barbaresco, Langhe

layers of consolidated and cemented sediments, mostly formed in bodies of water (examples limestone, sandstone, conglomerate)

e.g. limestone, sandstone, mudstone, shale, conglomerate

metamorphic rocks 

formed by the alteration of existing rocks due to heat from igneous intrusions (examples marble, quartzite) or pressure due to the crustal movement (examples slate, schist).

In the Langhe and specifically in Barolo the soil falls under the Sedimentary rocks, within this category of rocks you will find 3 prehistoric Miocene epoch of soils Serravalliano | Tortonian | Messiniano (and combinations)

Serravalliano - Formazione di Lequio

Tortonian -

1. Arenarie di Diano

2. Marne di S. Agata Fossili Sabbiose

      3. Marne di S. Agata Fossili tipiche

        4. Marne di S. Agata Fossile laminate

Messiniano - 1. Conlomerati di La Morra

          2. Formazione di Cassano Spinola sabbiosa

          3. Formazione di Cassano Spinola marnose

        4. Formazione della Vena del gesso 

Zancleano - Marne Plioceniche    

What does all this mean?? To go into depth a bit about the soils and what they do here we go. 

The Langhe wine region which encompasses both Barbaresco and Barolo are composed of sedimentary rock. This formation was thanks to the Padano sea which engulfed a large part of the Lower Piedmont region. The sediments eroded from the surrounding areas that were gradually accumulating on the seabed, which in turn buried the older strata. It wasn’t until 12 million years ago did this sea start to reseed and from its movement out left the Langhe with complex soil of the Lequio Formation, Diano Sandstones, and Saint Agata Fossile Marls. 

The Lequio Formation: This soilsstructure can be found in the Southern part of Serralunga d’Alba and a part of Monforte d’Alba on the eastern ridge. This formation is the oldest section, marked by light-colored marl, with layers or veins of well-cemented sand. 

Diano Sandstone: This soil structure can be found in the highest part of Monforte d’Alba as well as in some areas of La Morra. This soil structure is well noted for its high resistance to erosion because of the well cemented sands. 

Sant’Agata Fossil Marl: This complex soil structure changes quite quickly and is the major soil structure throughout all of the Barolo area. These soils comprise mainly fine, silt, and clay sediments making the Barolo area perfect for grape cultivation. There is however some variability to be found, with areas rich in thin veins of sand and others with mainly silt layers.

Barolo Classifications

The best way to think about Barolo now is kind of like the structure of Burgundy. Here in Barolo, we have 4 ways to classify your Barolo.

To become Barolo you need to follow these easy steps:

The vineyards must be located in the boundary of the Barolo wine-producing area. Nebbiolo is the only permitted varietal allowed to be used in Barolo wine and these vines must not be planted on a Northern facing slope. East, West, and South are accepted. The Nebbiolo vines must not exceed 6,000 vines per hectare and the most amount harvested per hectare cannot exceed 56 hL/ha. The minimum aging requirement for Barolo in wood is 18 months, and the wine cannot be released until the 4th January after the harvest. So around 38 months the wine must stay in the cellar before release. 

After the 4th January, you must submit your wine for controls, those will consist of analysis to make sure the acidity, Ph, alcohol, and other chemical components are all right. From there, the wine will then also need to pass a sensory analysis, where other producers will get together to test the wine to make sure it is a good example of the region’s best. 

From there you then have the classifications system. 

1. Barolo “Classico” - the word “classico” is not a legal term to be used on the label but is used amongst producers and wine enthusiasts to mention a generalization of the Barolo wine. This wine is coming from any of the designated Barolo vineyards and can be a mix of them. 

2. Barolo “Comune” - the village wine. This wine will be coming from the vineyards only located in the specific town which is mentioned on the label. For example Barolo Comune di Serralunga d’Alba, these grapes can only be coming from the town of Serralunga d’Alba. 

3. Barolo “Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva” - Barolo with a geographical mention. This wine is coming from one small piece of land. For example Barolo Cannubi or Barolo Bussia. From these two names, you know that Barolo is coming from that plot of land. 

4. Barolo “Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva, Vigna” - Barolo with a geographical mention but a specific plot is being mentioned. Many producers have a special plot in a vineyard that they over the years of cultivation have noticed that there is something special about this area. With that said they decided to vinify and age separately from the rest of that vineyard. When the producer does this you will see a mention of Vigna. For example Barolo Sarmassa Vigna Merenda or Barolo Ginestra Vigna Sorì Ginestra.  With this mention of Vigna, the producer must reduce the yield by another 10% in that vineyard to increase even more the quality of the wine. 

We should even take the time to talk about Riserva wines. With a Barolo Riserva, all the laws are the same as the Barolo except that you cannot release the wine until the 6th January after the harvest. So it must stay 62 months in the cellar before release.  MORE BAROLO WINEMAKING

Cru or Specific Vineyard Sights called Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva (MGA)

I could go on all day about this chapter as there are 170 single vineyards that make up Barolo. With that I have decided to use the Renato Ratti cru map, I feel as though he took the time to really think about what could be the best possible vineyards for Barolo. He was quite correct in many ways, as many of these vineyards we are going to highlight here are some of the most talked about vineyards in Barolo. They are: Monprivato, Villero, Rocche di Castiglione, Gabutti - Parafada, Lazzarito, Marenca-Rivette, Cannubi, Cerequio, Brunate, and Rocche di Annunziata for the 1st crus. MORE CRUS HERE

Monprivato - Tortoniano Marne di S. Agata Fossili sabbiose

Villero - Tortoniano Marne di S. Agata Fossili sabbiose & Tortoniano Marne di S. Agata Fossili tipiche 

Rocche di Castiglione - Tortoniano Marne di S. Agata Fossili sabbiose & Tortoniano Arenarie di Diano

Gabbutti-Parafada - Serravalliano Formazione di Lequio

Lazzarito - Serravalliano Formazione di Lequio

Marenca-Rivette - Serravalliano Formazione di Lequio

Cannubi - Tortoniano Marne di S. Agata Fossili sabbiose & Tortoniano Marne di S. Agata Fossili tipiche & Tortoniano Arenarie di Diano

Cerequio - Tortoniano Marne di S. Agata Fossili tipiche & Tortoniano Marne di S. Agata Fossili laminate

Brunate - Tortoniano Marne di S. Agata Fossili tipiche & Tortoniano Marne di S. Agata Fossili laminate

Rocche di Annunziata - Tortoniano Marne di S. Agata Fossili laminate & Tortoniano Marne di S. Agata Fossili sabbiose & Tortoniano Marne di S. Agata Fossili tipiche

Wine Tasting in Langhe, Walk-in Tasting Rooms

by: Amanda

Don’t like making appointments to visit your favorite wineries here is my quick list to wineries that have a walk-in tasting room.

In order to make the most out of your time wine touring around the Langhe, I do highly recommend getting in contact with the wineries beforehand to organize a tour and tasting, but lucky for us there are some wineries who do not require a call or email ahead of time.

Here is my quick list to the wineries who will accommodate to these pop-in tastings:

Wine Tasting in Barbaresco:

Neive Walk-in Tasting Rooms

Castello di Neive:

Town Neive

Day of Closure: Tuesday

Opening times: 10:30 till 6:30 pm

Located in the Castle in the town of Neive, this cellar has been producing wine since the 1800’s. If you catch them at the right time you can also visit the cellar which is a beautiful historic cellar with many artifacts dating back to the 18th century. In the tasting room they offer an array of different types of wines and have a list of choices per each wine.

Massimo Rivetti at Porta san Rocco:

Town Neive (conveniently located across the small piazza from Castello di Neive)

Day of Closure: Never

Opening times: 10:30 till 8:30 pm (nice place to have an aperitivo as well)

This location is a second location for the winery, the actual farm is located in the Neive hills and typically to visit the winery requires a reservation ahead of time. But Porta San Rocco Wine Shop is a great place to meet the family and taste their wonderful wines. They even have videos to bring you as close as possible to life in the vineyards and winery as they can. A very relaxed atmosphere and a great place to spend a lazy afternoon enjoying a glass of wine on the terrace. They also offer an E-Bike service if you would like to add some sport activity to your vacation.

Wine Tasting in Barbaresco:

Barbaresco Walk-in Tasting Rooms

Produttori del Barbaresco:

Town Barbaresco

Day of Closure: Never

Opening times: Monday through Friday 9:00 till 1:00pm then again from 2:00 till 6:00 pm on Saturday and Sunday they don’t close for lunch break so they work straight through from 10:00 am till 6:00 pm

This winery is very important as the last working cooperative in the Langhe.  Started in the late 1800’s it was Domizio Cavazza who was working as a professor at the time in the Enology school in Alba. It was his idea in the beginning to call the wine after the town of Barbaresco, actually as story goes he wanted to expand the Barolo region over to the Barbaresco area not to have any confusion with the two geographic zones. This didn’t happen, but he did manage to help the farmers out in the area of Barbaresco with experiments and new technologies in wine making that had helped to put Barbaresco on the map.

When he founded this cooperative there were the initial 3 rules:

1) One Grape Nebbiolo, that’s it!

2) The farmers who plan to work with the cooperative must not have their own winery or sell their Nebbiolo grapes to anyone else.

3) Quality comes first, the better the grapes, the higher the quality, the more the farmers get paid.

Wine Tasting in Barolo & Barbaresco:

Alba Walk-in Tasting Rooms

Ceretto:

Town Alba Fraction San Cassiano

Day of Closure: Never

Opening times: 10:00 till 5:00 pm

The Ceretto winery is a great visit, one of the few wineries in this area that understood how to take art, architecture, and wine and put them together in such a wonderful way. The tasting room at their Alba location has a wonderful room like a plastic bubble that was designed to look like a grape and if you see some photos on their website it does look just like that. The wonderful thing is from there you get a wonderful view of the rolling hills in the Langhe and also get a glimpse of some of their vineyards. The tasting options that they have are a good range and on the spot you can choose which type of tasting you would like to participate in. The staff is very friendly and knowledgable.

And if after you are hungry you can try and score a spot at Ceretto’s 3 Michelin starred restaurant Piazza Duomo, the only one of 3 stars in Piedmont.

Wine Tasting in Barolo:

Serralunga d’Alba Walk-in Tasting Rooms

Fontanafredda:

Town Serralunga d’Alba

Day of Closure: Never

Opening times: 9:30 till 6:30 pm

This is a winery with a whole lot of history, in order to actually have a winery tour you must make a reservation ahead of time, but for just a tasting room visit you can walk in at anytime in between the hours listed above. Fontanafredda is the largest working winery in the Barolo area and from this they have two wonderful restaurants on site. You can grab a quick bite at the Osteria or if you would like something absolutely magnificent you can make a reservation to enjoy a meal at their Michelin starred restaurant Guido.

Wine Tasting in Barolo:

Barolo Walk-in Tasting Rooms

Borgogno:

Town Barolo

Day of Closure: Never

Opening times: 10:00 till 1:00 pm then again at 3:00 pm until 7:00 pm

If you fancy a stroll around the Barolo village you can certainly take a pit stop at the Borgogno tasting room. Be warned because here in the village of Barolo the locations tend to be much smaller and thus this tasting room attracts a lot of attention and will most likely be jam packed. If you stop by there on a Thursday in the late spring/summer they will open up the terrace on the top of the building tower where you can go to enjoy a glass or bottle of wine and enjoy the vineyard view.

Damilano:

Town Barolo

Day of Closure: Never

Opening times: 10:30 until 6:30 pm

Please note that they also have a winery down the street but the tasting room shop is located in the center of Barolo where it is more convent to walk around and explore the small village. The friendly staff at this tasting room are very knowledgeable and will be able to help you find the perfect tasting package to help you get to know and understand the wonderful Nebbiolo grape.

Other posts you might like

Barbaresco Wine Tour Guide

Barolo Wine Tour Guide

In love with farmers market - "I Mercati" not to miss

by: Amanda

I love going to the weekly farmers market, to see the seasonal fresh produce and to watch the little old nonni bartering with the vendors about the things they are planning to buy for lunch that day. Here is a list of some of my favorite mercati in the area.

Monday -

Mango - Piazza XX Settembre - Via G. Marconi - Mango is a quaint little medieval town and this market is quite limited in things it offers but has all the basics. Situated in the Piazza where the castle is located, if you are here in the season when the Moscato d’Asti Enoteca is open I recommend stopping in for a nice refreshing glass of Moscato d’Asti.

La Morra - Piazza Vittorio Emanuele - A great Monday market with just the basics to get you started in the week.

Monforte d’Alba - Piazza Mons. Dallorto - A well curated smaller market with just the basics to get you started in the week.

Tuesday -

Alba - Piazza Cagnasso - Here is a smaller version of the market on Saturday. It is located under the covered parking area and is a bit limited on things that is offered but is good if you are in a pinch.

Canale - Via Roma - Piazza Italia - Via Gravier - Piazza Martiri L. - Via Malabaila - Piazza Vittoria - Piazza Castello -  This market is here everyday in the mornings it is open only for the restaurants in the area and after 4pm it is open to the public. On Tuesday all day it is open to the public.

Canelli  - Piazza Gancia - Piazza Zoppa - This is a very versatile market, great produce and many things to choose from. Great cheese, fish, and poultry stands.

Wednesday -

Bra - Piazza XX Settembre - Corso Garibaldi - A nice market to visit, typically has many different vendors for local products and great produce.

Neive - Piazza Garibaldi - A smaller market with many produce vendors, great cheese vendors, and if you have a craving for rotisserie chicken this market has got you covered.

Thursday -

Alba - Piazza Cagnasso - Here is a smaller version of the market on Saturday. It is located under the covered parking area and is a bit limited on things that is offered but is good if you are in a pinch.

Castagnole delle Lanze - Piazza S. Bartolomeo - Via Roma - Via Casetta - A great market and if you are in love with seafood they have a great fresh fish stand that offers the daily catch. The gentleman working the stand will gladly clean the fish for you too!

Friday -

Bra - Piazza XX Settembre - Corso Garibaldi - Piazza Carlo Alberto - A nice market to visit, typically has many different vendors for local products and great produce. Another plus is this market is very close to the most wonderful cheese store Giolito. Located on Via Montegrappa 6, and they have cheese courses and cheese tastings!

Murazzano - Piazza Cerrina - Piazza Umberto I - A small local market, and being in the heart of the Alta Langa cheese protection area, here there are some wonderful Murazzano D.O.P. cheese vendors.

Canelli - Piazza Gancia - Piazza Zoppa - Viale Indipendenza - Great market with lots of things to choose from. They have fresh seasonal vegetables, cheese, poultry, fresh seafood, clothing and other miscellaneous things that could be interesting.

Saturday -

Alba - Centro Storico - This market is great because you can get just about anything. They also have a great little area called “Mercato di Terra” in Piazza San Giovanni, which sells all local, organic, specialty products all grown and produced from a very short distance from Alba.

Asti - Piazza Alfieri - Piazza Campo Palio - Piazza Libertà - Another great market to visit and this one is very large that is is held in 3 Piazze. At this market it is not uncommon to find antiques and other random things for sale.

Mondovì - Piazza Ellero - Another great assortment of fresh produce, locally made salame, cheese, and oven baked bread. A large and vast market to visit.

Saluzzo - Concentrico e Via Don Soleri - Saluzzo could be one of my favorite towns to visit that is located at the foot of the Alps. A historical town with plenty of great restaurants, wine shops, and lots of shopping. But with the addition of the market you now get an array of fresh produce, cheese, honey, bread, everything to make your home cooked meal even better.

*photos courtesy of Letizia Cigliutti

Things to do in Piemonte in winter months.

The idea to come and visit your favorite winemaking region during winter months when tourist season could be at it lull, is a good idea.  There are plenty of Christmas Markets to visit and and also some things to keep in mind while you are visiting. The pro’s to visiting during off season is you will benefit from the off season rates for flights, hotels and car rentals. The cons are because there is a low in tourism many places take advantage of the quite season as of recently there has been more and more movement in this area, so people are closing up shop and going to their favorite island to bask in some sun.

Winter holiday, here in Italy we take our holiday very seriously and holidays to keep in mind are 8 December Feast of the Immaculate Conception. Christmas 25th and the 26th is Boxing Day or the second Christmas day. The first of January is also a national holiday.  Normally during these holidays it will be hard to find places in the restaurants or hard to find a taxi service or driver services as many people will too be celebrating with their families and friends, or they will be just over booked.   Also keep in mind that if any of these holidays fall on on a Tuesday or Thursday most people will take advantage of having a long weekend and plan to do things in another area of Italy.  With this overload of Italians in circulation it will become more difficult to find tables in restaurants, long lines at the ski lift, difficulties also for making appointments in wineries they will become full very fast, and we must not forget about the traffic.  So keep in mind it is best to do a little research beforehand to make sure you are booked where you would like to go, instead of trying to pop into somewhere.

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Weather conditions it is winter here, we don’t tend to get to much snow and the temperature does not drop to often below zero centigrade. But it can and it does. So it is a good idea to bring some winter gloves, a nice warm winter jacket with a hood is a good idea incase you need in a pinch, a hat, a scarf, and a good pair of boots that are comfortable for walking and also are good in the snow.   Also here the cold weather doesn’t get us down.  There are plenty of things to do on the weekends, farmers markets, Christmas markets or festivals that will have you outside walking around.  It isn't uncommon to find many people eating drinking and dancing outside in the winter months.  It actually helps get rid of those cooped up winter blues we sometimes can encounter.

Christmas markets are plentiful here in Northern Italy as well as Germany, Austria, and other European countries.  The Christmas markets are nice, they will typically have some traditional music playing, hot dishes to eat, and one thing to keep an eye out for is the mulled wines “Vin Brûlée” that will help keep you warm and get you in the spirit.  Be careful as most people tend to add a little kick to the wine of either a Brandy or Rum.  Usually the people displaying their wares are artists or crafters if you would like to find something hand made this is usually your best bet.  Most of the items will be Christmas themed like tree ornaments, or cookies and candies, but sometimes you can find wooden products and jewelry, etc.

Some markets worth visiting:

Govone

“Il Magico Paese di Natale di Govone” every weekend from 16 November until 22 December 2019.

Torino

“A Torino un Natale con i Fiocchi” located in Piazza Castello - From 29 November unit 6 January 2020

Monday - Friday from 10.30 till 21.00

Saturday, Sunday, and Holidays 10.30 until 23.00

“Mercatino di Natale a Borgo Dora al Cortile del Maglio” - located in Via Vittorio Andreis 18/10 - From 29 November until 23 December

every weekend from 10.30 until 23.30

“Luci d’Artista - located in the center in various streets - From 30 October until 12 January 2020

Neive

Christmas Market - located in the historic center of Neive - 30 November, 15 December 2019

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Torino being the larger city in the area they have a few more things going on than the other parts of Piemonte. Every day starting from the 26th November to the 8 of January they have a Santa Clause Village that is open everyday of the week from 10am until 11pm.  Located in Piazza d’Armi. It offers visits from Santa Clause, ice skating rink, and street food vendors.

You have a more Traditional Christmas market (Torino) open Monday to Friday from noon to 7pm, on Saturday and Sunday 10am till 8pm.  Located in Piazza Borgo Dora 34.  Here they have about 100 vendors, this market is half inside and half outside and there is a large variety of crafts, typical food products, and Christmas ordainments to keep you busy for a few house.  I typically go to this market every year as it has many wonderful things, and if you go on Sunday you can have the added bonus of the Antique market in the near by distance.

The idea of the Christmas market was started in the Germanic countries and to honor the idea in Torino they have an Ital-German market. Located in Piazza Solferino from the 8 November untile the 23 November.  This market embraces the Germanic traditions of Christmas and here you have the ability to taste your way though over 100 different types of beers!

One Christmas market that is very popular in the Langhe\Roero is the Govone market. Located around the Castle of Govone here this market is open weekends and holidays from 10am until 7pm and will run from 19 November until the 26 December.  This market brings in many from all over so be prepared if you don’t find a parking spot right away.  Also there is a wonderful Trattoria right next to the market that is not to miss called Trattoria Pautassi, they make some wonderful traditional dishes and if you are vegetarian have some delicious options as well.

My top 10 Gelato places in Piemonte - Italy

by: Amanda

sam_3020

Some people might call us crazy, but that is just what makes this so fun. We have traveled every centimeter of Piemonte diligently tasting every gelataria that we come across. It was a lot of work, and sometimes a stomachache but we did it. And here are our Top 10 Gelato places in Piemonte - Italy. I am going to be honest Gelato or Ice Cream is one of my favorite things to enjoy. It always has been, as a matter of fact my parents to this day give me a hard time about my love for gelato. As the story goes, on graduation from Kindergarden you had the opportunity to tell the audience of parents what I would like to be when I grow up. The normal things that adults ask kids in hopes to get them ready to make that big decision before they head off to college. As most of the kids would reply “Astronaut, Doctor, or Lawyer” when it was my turn to reach the podium I was one of the last to do so with a last name beginning with W I responded that I would like to make Ice Cream. As it was my favorite childhood memorie. My sister and I would hop in the Van of my father and the three of us would drive over to Haywoods for Mint Chocolate chip, butter pecan, Rocky Road, or Moose Tracks sit outside and enjoy the nice summer days.   That was how I wanted to spend my adult years, bringing joy to families. A few minutes out of the day to enjoy together.

Wanting to bring people together with a smile I have here my list of the Top 10 Gelato places in Piemonte.

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1. #10. Pepino - Torino, I have to tip my hat for Pepino making gelato since 1884. They are a larger more industrial operation today, which isn’t my norm but, they have mastered their flavors and are a staple here in Torino. So that is why they have made it to the list.

Piazza Carignano 8, Torino (TO)   website

1. #9. Cremeria dell’Antico Borgo – Mondovi’ Located in the historic center of this beautiful little town for me it has always been a nice pit stop. Don’t be surprised if there is a line to get their gelato as this place is small and busy.

Piazza Maggiore, Mondovi (CN)

1. #8. Mara dei Boschi – Alba Between Alba and Torino there is a lot of wonderful Gelatarie. This Gelato shop has two locations but the one I visit more often is located in Alba. I typically like to get from them their fruit flavors, they tend to work with more seasonal ingredients and project quite nicely their full flavors.

Via Vittorio Emanuele 17D, Alba (CN)   website

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1. #7. Conogelato – Torino WHAT Buffalo milk Gelato!! So as it turns out there are also Bufala (the correct name in Italian) here in Piemonte. There is a farm located in the Providence of Torino where they have these wonderful animals and they are not only making milk for this amazing gelato but also cheese. The flavor I recommend trying is Fior di Bufala, they serve this flavor like a soft serve and it is so creamy and delicious, it will pair nicely with Nocciola (hazelnut) or Caramello (caramel). Yum!

Via Cesare Battisti 3, Torino (TO)   website

1. #6. AgriSAPORE – Pralormo When taking a minute to drive some of the back roads of the Langhe/ Roero you will sometimes be pleasantly surprised when seeing a sign for Artisinal Gelato. There are two great gelato places off the beaten track the next one will be listed as number 5, and it is always nice when you can go and visit the cows then enjoy a scoop of their freshly made gelato! It is good too for people traveling with children as there is plenty of room to run and play. The flavors I recommend trying when there are Miele (honey) and Pasta di Meliga (polenta cookie).

Strada della Franca 5, Pralormo (TO)   website

1. #5. Agrigelateria San Pe’ – Porino Another off the beaten path gelateria, and honestly I will make the drive to come out to this one. If you find yourself there on a weekend, be prepared for no sitting room and to wait a bit in line for your turn. The flavors that I recommend there are Torrone (a nugat with hazelnuts and honey) or the fruit flavors like Pesche (peach) or Fragole (strawberry). Because here the fruit grows amazing in this area.

Cascina San Pietro 29/A, Porino (TO)   website

1. [embed]https://www.instagram.com/p/BJXHJ-NBg4h/?taken-by=amandaswineadventures[/embed] #4. Sacchero – Alba If you are a lover of Chocolate this is your heaven. The flavors that they make here are so full of flavor and creamy that I cannot walk by this place without stopping for a bite. Some of my many favorite flavors are; Chocolato (chocolate), Chocolato Pesca (chocolate peach), and Menta (mint). The mint is very rare when they make it, but when they do it is amazing.

Via Vittorio Emanuele 32, Alba (CN)

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2. #3. Soban – Valenza Another gelataria with a long history of quality and taste. Founded in 1924 today this gelataria is still family run. Being pioneers of Tradition and innovation it is here that I will take a risk with the wilder more creative flavors. Like Parmesan and Balsamic vinegar, or Candied Orange and Saffron. Here I know I am in good hands and every time I go probably being that is a bit of a ride from my house, I will always have a second helping!

Piazza Gramsci 23, Valenza (AL)   website

1. #2. Gelato I.G.P. – Bra This was a tough choice because there are many places I like to go when I am in Bra, but Gelato D.O.P. I just cannot walk by without stopping. The flavors here are so rich and great examples of the products they use that it is sometimes hard to choose which one. Also I recommend trying their Gelato pops, you won’t be disappointed.

Via Principi di Piemonte 63, Bra (CN)

1. #1. Berlica – Gallo Grinzane Cavour My ultimate favorite gelato place. If you don’t believe me you can ask the people who work there. I am there almost everyday and never get tiered of the flavors they have to offer. Here the flavor selection is limited to a few key flavors that they do so well it will tickle your taste buds. The ingredients that they use to make these wonderful treats are the highest quality out there and you can tell. The flavors I recommend to try are Licorizia (licorice), Berlica (a chocolate, hazelnut), Menta (mint), Pistacchio (pistachio), Dolce Salato (salted caramel), and basically anything else that they might have at the time. You will think you are in heaven.

Via Garibaldi 123, Frazione Gallo- Grinzane Cavour (CN)   website

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Thinking to visit the vineyards in Piemonte, Italy? Why wait!!

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There are plenty of things to see and do and who wouldn’t want to take a visit to a Barolo or Barbaresco vineyard?

I mean the wine is what brought me to Piemonte. The finesse of Nebbiolo, the vineyards of Barolo and Barbesco all seemed so magical. I came to visit to see and taste the wines and meet the winemakers. Then I fell in love. One with the rolling hills covered with vineyards in Langa and two with a charming Italian man. (Ladies watch out for those Italians). I came to Piemonte because I was driven by my passion for the wine and the food. I was given the opportunity to work first hand in a vineyard to help out with the year’s production of Nebbiolo to make Barbaresco. I loved it, there was something about working with the grapes and making the wine and talking to people about what I was doing. There were so many visitors who would come to take a winery tour, come to taste the wines. They would want me to take them on the winemaking journey, to tour with them in the winery talking about what is going on, what we were doing and learn something new. The winery tour and vineyard tour was my favorite part, taking a walk on a crisp autumn morning when the vineyard leaves were beginning to change color. You can tell the grape varietal by the color the leaves change “Gianni one day said to me”, as we were taking a walk in one of the vineyards located in the Asti area.

We would wake up early every morning to be greeted in the cellar by a tractor full of grapes ready for the crush. All of these ruby colored grapes filling every single red plastic crate. When you hold up the Nebbiolo grapes to the sun you can see through them the skins of the Nebbiolo take almost a Rose’ color and in light become transparent.   The Nebbiolo is the king of the grapes here in Piemonte and in all of Italy. The essence of Nebbiolo is like no other, it is elegante, complex, and can sometimes be quite powerful. There is no other grape to compare it to. It is also one grape that does not ever show as wonderful when planted outside of it’s Piemontese home. Even in Piemonte the Nebbiolo grape is quite finicky, it really does not like to go too far away. Just like most Italians, their home is beautiful, their culture is wonderful, and it is hard to find another place in the world as wonderful as Italy.

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As the harvest started to come to an end, Gianni and I would take his fast car to the mountains to have a traditional Piemontese mountain meal. We would drive for hours on these windy streets to arrive to a restaurant that looked more like someone’s home and would be welcomed in to have an amazing meal. We would eat Polenta with cheese, braised meats (my favorite was always the wild boar), have a couple of bottles of Piemontese wine and enjoy hours of laughs amongst us as well as the warm and charming mountain people who were feeding us this wonderful meal. We would then finish the meal with some Genepy or some Amaro from the area. Then head off to some quite grassy spot and take a nap. With the wind blowing in our hair and the sounds of the leaves shaking and the slight kiss of the sun amongst our faces. This was heaven.  I will never forget these times, and this was what made understanding the simplicities of life and how it should be.

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It was hard to return to the states, the flat, same old, East Coast that I have always known. Now I knew something different. A new way of life, one for living.

Even to this day when we go to take a trip even if it is a couple of days, I miss the rolling hills of the Langhe. The picturesque views of the Alps, the windy vineyard lined streets of Piemonte. I am glad that I decided to live here, and I love being able to share with people the wonderful experiences that I have had over the years of life in Langhe. I am glad to be able to tour with people to have more wine tour experience in Piemonte. To get to know much better the area’s of Barolo and Barbaresco and to get to know well the people the families who are behind such breathtaking wines. I now get to know their stories, and can see and feel their passion. But not only for just the wine, but the land, the work that goes into it, their family traditions that have been passed down to them over the years. They like the vines are really attached to the soil, the land, the history. It is amazing to find these things, to be able to share these things with my guests, with you, this is what I love.

The Harvest Report 2012 - Should I stay or should I go??

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Harvest work didn't scare me away as now it is my first official year here in Piedmont. I came in 2011 to work harvest but had arrived in the end of August. In 2012 I was here during the summer months and got to see the year build up. The vintage 2012 was a big year for me I got married, I moved out of the country, and I got my first foreign speaking job. Mind you I did not speak very good Italian but it was helpful when finding a job that my English is pretty good. I had in mind to work in a tasting room tasting and educating guests on Piedmont and even more on Barolo and Barbaresco. My first job-seeking stop was a hit, I drove up the steep driveway to Brezza knocked on the office door and luckily there was Enzo Brezza in the office, by himself, and not on the phone (nor did the phone ring during our meeting). In my super broken Italian I asked if he was looking for some help in the tasting room and he kindly invited me in to the office and then for a tour in the cellar. At the end of his explanations of the winery he asked me if I could start the day after. Of course I agreed. I went home super pumped, and so it began.

That summer as I remember it, in Neive it was super hot during the day the temperature was between 35-40, I remember like it was yesterday I was wearing my blue dress talking to my mom on the phone telling her that I have never been so hot in my life I was suffocating.   Then September came finally, and so did the rain. It hailed a few times in Barolo damaging a good amount of the fruit in some of our vineyards. But the rain never seemed to halt. I remember Enzo pacing back and forth in the office rubbing his head every time he walked toward the window and saw that it was still raining.   Finiamo questa vendemmia, mai. “We will never finish this harvest”, he would say in a worried tone to me. “We cannot harvest during the rain, we need to wait at least a day for the grapes to dry off before we can start to harvest, and if this rain does not stop and the sun does not come out we could also have problems with mold.” The sun did not come out, the rain did not stop, and every once in a while we would have a surprise of hail. In the end we did finish. We finished the harvest late.

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We fermented and kept separate our vineyards of Barolo and had aged them like we normally would. Enzo would come into the office every once in a while after tasting the barrels and would say “I don’t know if we are going to make cru Barolo for this vintage I might just blend the vineyards together and make a Classic Barolo.” So we waited until August 2015 when we decided to bottle. Normally before we bottle Enzo will set up numbered glasses for me to taste and give him my opinion. When I started to taste through the 2012 I was completely blown away by the elegance and the sweet Nebbiolo fruit that hit my tongue. At the end the Nebbiolo in this vintage turned out to be spectacular, power with elegance and a real great expression of the terrior, tasting the lineup today you really get a feeling of a classic vintage a bit more of the sensations of a cooler year. I see a great potential for these wines and I think that they will have the age ability of the 2010’s but will be able to be enjoyed younger, thanks to that great fruit.

Enjoy!

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Sometimes you just need a cocktail

Living in the Langhe can sometimes make you all wined out. And trust me after a long day of tasting wine sometimes you need a drink.

Here are some of my favorite cocktail bars and what to drink.

Manhattan:

Coming from the homeland of the perfect Manhattan, I find a lot of Italian bars just don’t know how to do it right. Could be the resources I mean here we don’t get a choice of 50 different small batch Bourbons and if you ask for a Rye Whiskey be prepared for a funny look.

Cocktail and Dreams: Castagnole delle Lanze (AT) - Via Roma 9

Tel: +39 338/7485745

The owner of this bar won an international cocktail competition and can shake up some wonderful things other than just a Manhatten.

Moscow Mule:

In summertime this drink is my all time favorite, it’s cold refreshing and uplifting. When I first arrived to Piemonte 5 years ago no one had heard of it, and let me tell you it was very difficult time for me. I mean, I had to drive over an hour to find ginger beer. Today there are a few key places that make this libation and the results are how I remember them back home.

Aromatario: Neive (CN) - Piazza Negro 4

Tel: +39 0173/677206

The bartender here worked for a hot minute some of the top bar/restaurants in London and has brought back to Italy a few tricks.

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Negroni:

This Italian classic is not always easy to find. A well balanced one that is.

The bar that I am going to talk about is my hands down favorite bar in this area. They are located in Santo Stefano Belbo and really you cannot go wrong with what you order, from the beer to the wine to the cocktails. Everything they have on their list is just wonderful and the brothers who own it are a riot!

 Bar Roma: Santo Stefano Belbo (CN) - Via Roma 16

Tel: +39 0141/844252

                        p.s. ask them about their Moscow Mule it’s also fantastic

Gin Tonic:

The English love Italian wine and the Italians love English Gin. The Italians love Gin period. Many of them today are making it a passion to collect as many different Gins they can find. Sometimes they even ask their friends to bring some bottles back for them from their travels.

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Degusto: Neive (CN) - Via Cocito 7

Tel: +39 0173/67380

Really if you come to Neive you don’t have to leave there is plenty of wonderful things to do here.

Soda: Alba (CN) - Corso Italia 6

Tel: 346/5938838

This is a vegetarian restaurant where the owner worked and lived for a few years in Santa Monica California and has taken his knowledge of interesting foods and passion for Gin here to the Langhe.

Wine Stories: Again in Castagnole delle Lanze (AT) - Via Ener Bettica 2

Tel: +39 0141/1766381

The owner of this restaurant is half Italian from Castagnole Lanze and half English. He grew up in London and has worked at some of the top restaurants in the city. This quaint little place has a wonderful patio where you can sit and enjoy your beverage.

Visiting Piedmont the Rough Guide

by: Amanda

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First things first! You must realize that there is so much to see and do in Piedmont that it could literally take a lifetime to see, eat, drink, and do it all. From the history, to the food, and the wine (I’m talking like hundreds if not thousands of wineries to visit and the amount of great restaurants is endless. I mean I have been here for 5 years and still have a list a mile long.) It can be daunting and if you are in a rush to see and do as much as humanly possible I would consider looking into hiring a private guide.

This is good, why?

1. Having a driver for the day who knows the area, this way you can relax, enjoy, and maybe eat and drink a little more than if you were driving.

2. Someone who will be able to give you an full day education of the history, the traditional foods and the culture

3. Someone who will can give you the breakdown between the beloved Barolo and Barbaresco regions

4. English is seldom spoken here so to have someone who speaks English and can communicate with the locals for you is a big help.

5. If you are planning to buy wine at the wineries and Enoteche your guide will be able to help you with shipping the wine back home for you.

If you are a wine lover and coming to explore the Nebbiolo grape I would consider spending at least one day to visit the region Barbaresco and at least one if not two days in Barolo. Make sure to do some homework and chose a few wineries beforehand to visit from a couple of the different towns. Keep in mind not to pack tight you schedule and to leave plenty of time in-between to take pictures, getting lost, and if you are really jiving with the winemaker that the tasting might take longer than anticipated. Like they might invite you to have lunch at their house. With that said normally a winery visit is about 1.5 hours or longer and no one is open during the sacred hours of lunch (noon till 2pm). One thing that is very important is to make sure that you make a reservation for your visit ahead of time. In Piedmont almost all of the wineries are small family run, and more often than not are located in their home. They want to have visitors and love when you come from all over the world to visit but respect and etiquette is important.  Some do’s and don’t: Do taste all the wines they would like to show you. Don’t say no I only want to taste this. You never know you might like more the wine you were going to pass on. Do ask if there is a tasting fee. A lot of wineries are starting to ask a fee to help with the costs of the bottles being opened. However a lot of places will wave that fee if wine is purchased, it’s a good excuse to bring home some bottles. If you like a wine and would like to retest a wine: Do ask for another taste. Don’t pick up the bottle and pour yourself.

Some recommendations of places I have visited and have found to be very accommodating and interesting. In the village of Barbaresco a visit at the historical Produttori del Barbaresco. This winery is important because it is one of the oldest running cooperatives in this area.

In Neive the neighboring town to Barbaresco and the largest producing area in the DOC I would recommend to take a visit a Pier Busso located in the heart of the Albesani vineyard. Great people and even better wines!

If you have time for a visit to Treiso where in my opinion the views from this village on a clear day are the most spectacular, have a visit a Ca’ del Baio another slam-dunk with the wines.

Now when we start to talk about Barolo a whole lot of things have just got that much more complicated. I know right. Barolo the king of wines, the wine for kings this phrase originated from the king of Savoia Vittorio Emmanuele II who just loved his glass of Barolo. Now I recommend in order to get the most out of Barolo you need at least 2 days to explore the 11 villages that make up this magical place.

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If you just have time for the greatest hits, the must visit villages are Serralunga d’Alba, this range of hills makes up an era of soil structure dating back over 10 million years. What this means, it is the oldest soil structure that makes up the Barolo area. This soil structure makes the wines from this area very complex, more tannic, and better for aging. A winery I recommend to visit Pira Luigi typically how they start their tour is on their balcony overlooking their 3 main vineyards Vigna Marenca, Vign Arionda, and Vigna Margheria. This is good to be able to see the different exposures talk about the minor differences in the soil and the microclimates.

Monforte d’Alba a majority of the more famous wineries come from this little hill top village. Monforte is not the highest area in Barolo but it is the steepest incline. A must visit winery is Conterno Fantino located in the Ginestra vineyard, right on the top. The view from the tasting room is breath taking; also the winery is really something to see.

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In Barolo you are in the heart of the Barolo area and some of the wineries here are the oldest. Barolo is where you really want to visit one of the traditionalists and one that still today remains the last of the Mohicans is Bartolo Mascarello Maria Teresa is an absolutely passionate and respectful of her family traditions and the great wines that make Barolo what it is today. Here you will be able to really see the original side to Barolo.

Then there is La Morra the highest area in Barolo I highly recommend to visit this town last because if you go to the top of the village there is a view point and a map that shows all the towns you have visited in both Barolo, Barbaresco and some of Roero. The winery to visit would be Elio Altare. This visit with his daughter Silvia will be completely different to the traditional style Baroloistas. Elio is the mind behind the modernist movement here in the Langhe, and the story that his daughter Silvia tells is just captivating. Silvia has some pretty big shoes to fill but I think she is doing a great job, her energy and enthusiasm for what she is doing you can really see in the wines they are outstanding and the whole visit is just a great experience.

If you need any other pointers or help planning your trip please feel free to contact me.  Buon viaggio!

La Spinetta does it Again

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Barbaresco 2012 Valeirano

This was the other most talked about wine of the night Christmas Eve. La Spinetta as a winery has a very interesting history (more to come). Giorgio Rivetti was one of the founding fathers for the “modernist movement” here in the Langhe region. There was a gang of youngsters in Langhe who were thinking of bigger and better things to happen within these two regions Barolo and Barbaresco. They were young and restless, they traveled all over the world to learn the techniques from other wine regions to then bring back to the Langa and break the tradition of wine making and the way people look at Nebbiolo today.

I must say in my experience with La Spinetta their wines have always been strong, brooding, and powerful just like their label (the rhinoceros). A wine you would typically want to give some time. However I was surprised and yes I happily had another glass of the 2012. There was so much finesse, fruit, silky tanning that this wine was almost gulp able. And who doesn’t want a wine that good? I am very much looking forward to trying the other 2012 cru’s.

Valeirano for me and also almost all of the wine making team at La Spinetta is the favorite of the single vineyards. Located in Treiso (one of the 4 villages of Barbaresco) and not so well known, Treiso has the highest altitude in the area and the soil in Treiso can range from an iron rich red clay to calcareous soils, making for much more structure, body, and force.

Leave time for lunch.

by: Amanda

In many societies today I hear more and more people talking about how their jobs are so demanding that they only have time to quickly grab something from the kiosk parked right outside their office to bring back to their desk so they can eat while they are working. Fast paced life has people now eating and drinking on the go. Gigantic coffee mug in the car on the way to work, no good. The more convenient this world is becoming the time to escape from the everyday stress is become harder to separate from, great example smart phones. The most important thing people are quickly forgetting is the importance around the dinner table. When there is a meal to share this table will bring people together, this table entices conversations for people to take a few hours out of their day to interact with their friends and families. This table is like an Island away from the stress of everyday, and is quickly being forgotten. This table is something very important to Italian lifestyle and no matter how much the world is changing this Island will always bring people together to enjoy the time spent together, a glass of wine, and something wonderful to eat.

When you come to Piemonte one thing that must be respected is the time for lunch. Your body needs to be replenished, nourished and at lunchtime is the perfect time to do so. Piemonte has a culture of the locals stopping their workday around noon, sometimes a group from work will plan to go to have lunch together at the local Trattoria or Osteria and there they will sit and enjoy until they need to be back to work around 2pm. Typically this lunch will consist of a glass of wine, a starter followed by a plate of homemade pasta. Nothing fancy but just enough time to relax, socialize, and get away from some everyday stress.

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When you come to Piemonte here the home of Slow Food movement, the movement that has helped to preserve some of the food traditions that were in danger of going extinct. You come to a place that understands patience, has less stress, and knows how to enjoy the better things in life. I must admit here in Piedmont you eat very well. We actually say amongst each other that, it is hard to find a place to eat that is not good. With that said some of my favorite dishes from the area are: Vitello Tonnato thinly sliced roast beef with a mayo-tuna sauce. I know this combination sound weird but I swear once you try it you will be craving it when you return back home. Pepperoni ripieni con salsica di Bra, roasted peppers filled with sausage from Bra, the sausage from Bra is a specialty around this area. Made from 100% veal and specially seasoned with spices this sausage is typically eaten raw. Cipiola Ripiena this is a baked in salt whole onion that they take and hollow out add cheese and typically sausage to the onion, mash it all up then put it back into the onion skin. So good. Pasta Agnilotti del Plin a hand pinched small ravioli filled with a mixture of meats and green vegetables. The sauce for these ravioli typically are a butter and sage or the jus from the roasted meat. Tajarin, this is Piemontese for Tagliatele a hand cut pasta made with eggs. Typically for every kilo of flour you use you will need 40 egg yolks for this dough. The sauces for this pasta are either a sausage ragu or butter and freshly shaved white truffle. Yum! The beef here is a special breed called Fassone, that does not tend to get fatty. So you can easily eat it raw or when you sear a steak medium rare you can cut through it like butter.   Just some salt and oil and that’s it. Save room for dessert because when you get a fresh Panna Cotta there really is nothing like it.

While you are here you might as well tuck yourself in for a nice meal, some good company, and of course some excellent wines.  A short list of some of my favorite places to eat the foods I have mentioned earlier are:

Osteria I Rebbi - Monforte d’Alba

Osteria Veglio - La Morra

La Cantinetta – Barolo

Trattoria dei Bercau – Verduno

Osteria dell’Arco – Alba

Degusto – Neive

Ristorante Repubblica di Perno – Monforte d’Alba

Ristorante Casina Collavini – Costigliole d’Asti

You will probably find me at one of these places on my lunch break!

If you would like to make some of these traditional dishes at home you can look at Gianni's cooking blog at DoSomethingGood

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