Gavi wine, what is it, where is it from?

by: Alexa

Gavi village has an interesting history (here to read more about it) and even more interesting food and wine culture! The position near the border with Liguria influenced a lot the culinary tradition and the proximity with the Mediterranean Sea is crucial for the unique expression of the Cortese grape in this area.

Gavi is placed in the extreme southern corner of Piedmont, where the plain meets the Apennines mountains. Because of this formation, the terroir is unique and from a geological point of view, it could be divided in three areas:

The red soils originated from the iron rich clay of ancient alluvial deposits. These are located north of Gavi town, where the hills are gentler and the vineyards alternate with oak and acacia trees.

The central strip that sees an alternation of marl and sandstone. 

The southern part that is the steepest due to the meeting with the Apennine mountains. This part is composed of white clay and marl. Here it’s possible to find many fossils, because of the marine origin of the soil. 

Gavi DOCG is a white wine also known as Cortese di Gavi, because it’s produced with 100% Cortese grape, which is native to this area and is typically grown in the province of Alessandria and in Tortona. Cortese is first recognized as a grape for vinification in a letter dated 1659. This does not mean that it wasn’t already used at those times, but probably not known by the name Cortese. 

The grape has typically a thin golden-yellow skin and natural high acidity, that is well balanced in the wines thanks to the climate of the area and the influence of the Ligurian sea.

Gavi was the second DOCG of Italy and was acknowledged in 1974. The denomination includes the territories of eleven municipalities in the province of Alessandria and it refers to four types of white wine: still, sparkling, spumante and riserva. Since all four of them are 100% Cortese grapes, they have some characteristics in common:

• Color: it’s light straw yellow with greenish reflections. 

• Aroma: in the nose you can sense notes of white fruits, citrus and then the minerality that comes from the soil composition, especially for the wines that are coming from the southern part of the territory.

• Taste: in the mouth it is dry and fresh. It’s a full and elegant wine.

To produce a Gavi Riserva, the wine needs to age for at least a year, in which at least six months in the bottle. While for the Gavi Spumante Riserva it needs to age for two years, in which at least eighteen months on the yeast in bottle.

In the end we can say that Gavi's position was not strategic only for the people, but also for the wine. The breeze that comes from the Ligurian sea meets here the snowy wind from the mountains. This climate is unique and enhances the natural characteristics of Cortese grapes, resulting in a top-quality wine. 

Gavi village is also considered by some as the original place of birth of ravioli, the typical stuffed pasta that is possible to find in many forms all over Piedmont. Though, according to the legend, ravioli were invented between the XII and XIII century here in Gavi by the family Raviolo, who runned an Inn along the ancient Via Postumia.

All the people and the merchants who were passing through Gavi, stopped at Sir Raviolo Inn. Of course, they would arrive tired after a long journey, but thanks to this particular dish they refilled their energies. Sir Raviolo was the inventor of a tool to stuff these little dumplings of thin pasta. He created a fill with aromatic herbs, eggs and goat cheese. After this meal, the travelers were regenerated and ready to hit the road again. 

Of course, during the centuries the recipe changed, following the taste of the times, but the official one is preserved by the Ordine Obertengo dei Cavalieri del Raviolo e del Gavi. It’s an order of knights that, for over 40 years, is devoted to the promotion of the local ravioli, the Gavi white wine and the food culture of the area. 

Nowadays, the fill of the ravioli is traditionally made with beef, pork, eggs, cheese, borage and escarole. There are four ways of serving them: “al tocco” a meat sauce influenced by Genoa; in a bowl with broth; in a bowl with red wine; “a culo nudo”, that means “butt naked”. For the last one, the ravioli are drained and put in a napkin without condiments, only the upper part is sprinkled with parmesan cheese, leaving the lower part, the butt, naked. 

In general, the proximity to the Liguria region influenced the culinary tradition of the area. It is reflected not only by the use of pesto as a typical sauce for the local pasta and the “al tocco'' meat sauce for the ravioli, but also by the preparation of “focacce” and “farinate”, that are traditionally from Genoa. 

Another peculiar dish, that is also a Slow Food presidium, is the “testa in cassetta”, it’s a cold cut terrine made from pig’s head, tongue, muscle and heart, that is possible to find both in Liguria and in the Gavi area. 

As for desserts, this town is famous for the “amaretti”, little macarons made with almond flour, egg whites, sugar and honey. The bitter taste given by the almonds is well balanced by the sweetness of the honey. 

Last but not least, the area is also internationally known for the artisan chocolate tradition, of which Novi Ligure is the most famous producer. 

Gavi wine : History of Gavi and Gavina

by: Alexa

What is Gavi wine, history of Gavi, Gavina and where is it located? Gavi is a white Italian wine produced in the Gavi region of Piemonte, in northwestern Italy. It is made primarily from the Cortese grape variety, known for its crisp, lively acidity and citrusy flavors. Gavi wines are usually light-bodied and refreshing, making them a popular choice for seafood dishes and as an aperitivo. Gavi is a little town placed between Piedmont and Liguria. Surrounded by hills and mountains, you can actually feel in the air the breeze coming from the Ligurian Sea.

It is a noble land forged by gallant people and, of course, it is the main village of Gavi di Gavi DOCG white wine area of production. 

This small town was found by Romans as a strategic site along the Via Postumia, the road that connected directly the two main ports of the times: Genoa, in Liguria region, western north Italy, and Aquileia, in Friuli region, eastern north Italy.  

In particular, the first part of this route linked Genoa to Derthona, the nowadays Tortona in the province of Alessandria, Piedmont. The road passed through this small settlement in which the rulers were the members of a family called Gens Gavia. 

The town name comes most likely from the family, but there is an interesting legend that people from here had passed down. It’s a tale of love, nobility and powerful women: the legend of Gavina. 

Gavina was the only daughter of Chlodomer, the King of the Franks at Orléans in the second half of the V century. 

At the time the main power in Europe was represented by Theodoric the Great, king of the Ostrogoths, who was at first formally ruling in the name of the Emperor of the Eastern Roman Empire. He was married to Audofleda, Chlodomer’s aunt. 

The legend says that Chlodomer sent his daughter, Gavina, to the Ostrogoth court, hoping for a political marriage. 

But the plan didn’t go as planned. Gavina was in love with an impoverished nobleman of Orléans, Philipe. The two of them decided to flee before Chlodomer was able to send her away. After putting together a treasure, stealing money and jewels from the castle, Gavina took Philipe over the Alps, probably because she wanted to go on the Mediterranean coastline. But they still were on the run when they came across a bucolic little village, surrounded by beautiful hills, like they never saw. On the top of one of these, there was the remains of a Roman fortress: it was the perfect place for them to live. The only one who knew about them was Amalasuntha, Theodoric’s daughter. She was like a sister for the Frank princess. 

Gavina was able to establish a nice relationship with the villagers and they loved her back. But it is known that dreams aren’t forever. Philipe was spoiled and unfaithful. He was a regular visitor of the worst dives of the area and he showed Gavina's gold off too many times. People started to talk and the story arrived at Chlodomir. He immediately sent his soldiers to bring Gavina back, of course the fearful Philipe fled, since he didn’t want to be punished by his king, but not without stealing all the money from his wife. 

Gavina, who was a brave and strong woman, stayed there and, thanks to the villagers, was able to resist for some time. But the soldiers were too strong for her and a small group of farmers. Luckily, Amalasuntha acted: she urged her father Theodor to intervene. A slightly confused Chlodomir had to forgive her and leave her alone at that point, after all he couldn’t say no to the king of the Ostrogoth. 

But why Theodoric, this powerful man, who was able to stand up to the eastern roman emperor, decided to help a woman that was probably an illegitimate daughter of a minor king? For sure it wasn’t only because Amalasuntha kindly asked him. Well, the answer is in the position of Gavina’s village. As said before, the Romans put this settlement to control the Via Postumia. The village still was a strategic place both for trades and military purposes. A well supplied castle controlled by a trusty friend would have been of huge benefit to the security of the Ostrogoths kingdom. 

In the end Gavina continued to rule on her own over the village and, with the help of Theodoric, built an impotent castle and strong city walls. The villagers were so grateful to her that they decided to name the village after her. Since then, it is known as Gavi. 

According to the legend, the name of the main grape of the area, Cortese, which is used to produce the Gavi wine (Gavi DOCG), also comes from Gavina. She was so loved by the people of the village for her courtesy, that they decided to name this sweet grape Cortese.

It is said that Gavina is buried inside the ara, a little altar, placed inside the town, which is engraved with the symbols of the three most important powers who ruled over Gavi in the centuries: the crest of Guasco family from Alessandria, the snake of Milan Visconti and the Saint George Cross, of the Republic of Genoa.

Coming back to the historical fact, it is worth mentioning the Renaissance period. Noble people and merchants invested in the architectural and artistic heritage building churches and palaces and decorating them with beautiful frescos. Some of them are still intact today.

But also because of the strategic position, Gavi was constantly in fight. The three powers represented on the ara fought battles to gain the control of the town. The only period of peace was under the reign of Frederick Barbarossa, who was linked to the Marquis of Gavi by friendship and family. He also had a personal tower in their castle! But after his death, the control of the town passed continuously between the Republic of Genoa and the Visconti family of Milan. 

In the XVIII century, Gavi was conquered by the Austrians for a short time. Later, it was a battleground of the Napoleonic wars. From the first half of the XIX century, it’s put under the control of the Savoia family of Turin. 

Today, Gavi is most known for the wine production of Gavi DOCG and the food culture. Follow me for a new blog post about the wine and food tradition of this village!