Valtellina Wines: Discovering Alpine Nebbiolo in Lombardy’s Heroic Vineyards

by: Alexa

Welcome to Valtellina, a unique and historic wine region located in the heart of Lombardy, in the province of Sondrio. Tucked between towering Alpine mountain ranges and carved by the Adda River, Valtellina is one of the most spectacular—and underrated—wine regions in Italy.

This long, narrow valley, just northeast of Lake Como, is the proud home of Chiavennasca, the local name for Nebbiolo, grown on ancient terraced vineyards clinging to steep mountain slopes. The result? Elegant, mineral-driven wines that truly reflect their alpine terroir.

The Terroir of Valtellina: Mountains, Sun, and Stone

Valtellina is defined by its geography. Nestled between the Rhaetian Alps to the north and the Orobie Prealps to the south, the region enjoys natural protection and a unique microclimate.

A cool breeze known as the “beva” blows in from Lake Como, helping to ventilate the vineyards and reduce disease pressure. The vines are typically planted on south-facing slopes between 300 and 800 meters above sea level, where they benefit from over 1,900 hours of sunshine per year.

The diurnal temperature variation—the difference between warm days and cool nights—enhances the aromatic complexity and freshness of the grapes, especially crucial during the ripening period.

Terraced Vineyards and Ancient History

One of the most distinctive features of Valtellina is its dramatic terraced vineyards, built into the steep Alpine slopes with dry-stone walls (about 25,000 meters of walls. You can go from Sondrio to Stockholm). This ancient system of farming is part of what makes Valtellina a region of “heroic viticulture”—where nearly all vineyard work must be done by hand.

Wine has been made here since classical antiquity. The Roman poet Virgil praised Valtellina’s grapes in the Georgics, and Pliny the Elder admired the elegance of its wines. The practice of terracing these rugged hillsides likely began during the Roman Empire.

In the 1400s, even Leonardo da Vinci mentioned Valtellina, noting its powerful wines and dramatic mountain landscape.

The Grape: Nebbiolo (Chiavennasca)

While Nebbiolo is best known for its role in Barolo and Barbaresco, it takes on a distinct character in Valtellina, where it’s called Chiavennasca. This name, derived from the local dialect ciuvinasca, refers to “the grape best suited for winemaking.”

Today, over 90% of Valtellina’s vineyards are planted to Nebbiolo. The remaining 10% consists of native varieties like Rossola Nera, Pignola Valtellinese, and Brugnola.

Soils of Valtellina: Rock, Mineral, and Depth

The soils of Valtellina are of glacial, morainic, and alluvial origin, packed with minerals and rocks (we are talking Iron, Granite, Schist) that force the vines to push their roots deep into the mountain. The poor, shallow topsoil challenges the vines, resulting in grapes with intense concentration and structure.

This rocky, well-draining soil is essential to the fine tannins and mineral backbone that define Valtellina wines.

The Wines of Valtellina

Valtellina Superiore DOCG

Recognized as a DOCG in 1998, this wine must contain at least 90% Nebbiolo. It’s produced from grapes grown in the best, sunniest vineyard sites. A Riserva version is also permitted.

• Aging: Minimum 24 months, including 12 months in wood

• Riserva: Minimum 36 months, with 12 months in wood

• Five Subzones: Maroggia, Sassella, Grumello, Inferno, Valgella

Each subzone brings its own nuance, from the structured wines of Inferno to the more delicate styles of Valgella.

Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG (Sfursat)

Granted DOCG status in 2003, Sforzato is Italy’s first dry red passito wine to achieve this level. Made from at least 90% Nebbiolo, the grapes are harvested early and dried in well-ventilated rooms (fruttai) before vinification.

• Aging: Minimum 20 months, including 12 months in wood

• Style: Rich, powerful, velvety, and age-worthy

This wine combines the elegance of Nebbiolo with the richness and depth of an appassimento-style wine.

Rosso di Valtellina DOC

This is the entry-level Nebbiolo from the region often considered the “younger sibling” of the two DOCG wines. Offering a fresher, more approachable expression of the grape.

• Vineyards: Spread across hillside and foothill zones

• Style: Lighter, juicy, and food-friendly, perfect for everyday enjoyment

Rosso di Valtellina is often the first taste wine lovers have of the region and a great introduction to its unique alpine Nebbiolo style.

Why Valtellina Deserves a Place on Every Wine Lover’s Map

Though less known internationally than its Piedmontese cousins, Valtellina’s Nebbiolo wines are some of Italy’s most elegant and expressive. The combination of altitude, mountain air, mineral-rich soils, and centuries-old tradition results in a style of wine that is distinctly alpine—refined, aromatic, and full of soul.

Whether you’re a Nebbiolo devotee or just discovering this fascinating grape, Valtellina offers a wine experience unlike any other.

Want to learn more about the Nebbiolo grape and visit this region with a first hand wine pro?! Join me on my next Nebbiolo Madness tour.

You can find out more about this tour here.

Ghemme DOCG and the Noble Mountain Wines of Northern Piedmont

by Alexa

Discovering Ghemme DOCG: A Hidden Gem of Northern Piedmont

The history of Ghemme DOCG wine is rooted in antiquity. The earliest signs of viticulture in the area date back to the 5th–4th millennium BC. Although wine production was already practiced by Celtic tribes, it truly flourished with the arrival of the Romans. During Roman times, the city of Agamium—modern-day Ghemme—was so closely tied to agriculture and winemaking that its symbol featured a bunch of grapes and a sheaf of wheat.

Officially recognized as a DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) in 1997, Ghemme today remains lesser-known than neighboring Gattinara, from which it is separated by the Sesia River. Yet the wines produced from the hills of Ghemme and Romagnano Sesia often reach peaks of complexity and elegance, making it a standout among Nebbiolo wines from northern Piedmont.

Ghemme’s soils tell a geological story that connects it with two other historic DOCs: Sizzano and Fara. These three Piedmont wine denominations, located on the western side of the Sesia River, share mineral-rich, glacially-formed soils originating from the mighty Monte Rosa. Beneath a thin clay layer lies a bed of small, fragile pebbles—granite, porphyry, serpentine, and more—shattered by the forces of erosion. These nutrient-poor, well-draining soils challenge the Spanna grape (local name for Nebbiolo), forcing deep root penetration in search of water and minerals. The result is a structured, age-worthy wine with vibrant acidity and powerful tannins.

To be labeled Ghemme DOCG, the wine must contain at least 85% Nebbiolo (Spanna), with up to 15% Vespolina and/or Uva Rara permitted in the blend. These grapes, combined with the terroir’s unique minerality, result in wines that are elegant, earthy, and perfect for long-term cellaring.

Other Alpine Denominations in Northern Italy You Should Know

Erbaluce di Caluso DOCG: Piedmont’s Golden White

The Erbaluce grape has enchanted Piedmont for centuries. The first written reference dates back to 1606, in a treatise by Giovanni Battista Croce, jeweler to Duke Carlo Emanuele I. He praised this white grape grown around Turin, describing its brilliance and freshness. The name Erbaluce is thought to derive from Alba Lux (the light of dawn), alluding to the grape’s glowing golden hue.

According to local legend, Albaluce—a beautiful nymph born from the union of the Dawn and the Sun—gave birth to the grape through her tears, which formed sweet golden vines after a tragic flood devastated her people.

Erbaluce di Caluso DOCG was originally granted DOC status in 1967 and elevated to DOCG in 2010. It is produced in four distinct styles: dry still white, sparkling (Metodo Classico), passito, and passito riserva.

The vineyards are located in the morainic amphitheater of Ivrea, carved by glacial movements during the Pleistocene. The resulting soils are sandy, acidic, and rich in pebbles, creating the perfect setting for this expressive white wine. Erbaluce vines, typically trained using the pergola canavesana, grow on south-facing slopes between 200 and 500 meters above sea level.

Erbaluce di Caluso wines are crisp, floral, and mineral-driven in their youth. With age, they develop notes of dried fruit, almonds, and honey. The Passito Erbaluce, often made from grapes affected by Botrytis cinerea (noble rot), is vinified using traditional drying lofts (sulè) and stands among Italy’s most captivating dessert wines.

Carema DOC: Heroic Viticulture on the Edge of Piedmont

Nestled at the northernmost edge of Piedmont in the province of Turin, Carema DOC is a striking example of heroic mountain viticulture. Sharing borders and geology with the Aosta Valley, the area boasts soaring terraces built into rugged mountainsides at elevations between 360 and 700 meters (1180–2295 feet).

These terraces are supported by truncated-cone stone pillars, known locally as pilùn, which retain solar heat and release it during cooler nights, aiding slow and even ripening of the grapes. The vineyards are planted in sandy, acidic soils rich in glacial debris, fluvioglacial sediments, and weathered stone.

Established as a DOC in 1967, Carema wine must be made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes. The vines are trained on wooden pergolas (topie), a method unique to this denomination and its neighbor in the Aosta Valley: Donnas DOC.

Carema wines are pure expressions of mountain Nebbiolo—elegant and ethereal with aromas of violets, wild berries, and Alpine herbs. Their vibrant acidity, delicate tannins, and mineral backbone make them exceptional candidates for long aging.

Donnas DOC: Valle d’Aosta’s Noble Red

Donnas DOC was the first wine in the Valle d’Aosta region to receive DOC recognition, in 1971. Much like Carema, Donnas is characterized by steep, terraced vineyards clinging to granite-rich slopes carved by glacial activity. The terraces are supported by thick stone walls and dotted with barmet—traditional wine cellars tucked under boulders.

The soils of Donnas are morainic and well-drained, and the microclimate is relatively warm for a mountain region, with generous rainfall. Vines are grown on pergolas supported by stone columns, just like in Carema.

Donnas DOC wine must include at least 85% Nebbiolo, with the rest typically made up of local black varieties. The wine is intensely aromatic, with notes of dried violet, mountain herbs, and ripe or jammy red fruits. On the palate, Donnas shows structure, firm tannins, and a distinctive mineral streak. This is another great example of how Nebbiolo can thrive in extreme alpine terroirs.

Final Thoughts

If you’re looking to explore Italian wine regions beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, the high-altitude appellations of northern Piedmont and the Aosta Valley offer exceptional diversity and authenticity. Whether you’re drawn to the structured elegance of Ghemme, the golden glow of Erbaluce di Caluso, or the heroic wines of Carema and Donnas, these bottles tell stories of history, geology, and passion.

Planning a northern Italy wine tour? Don’t overlook these lesser-known but unforgettable destinations. From volcanic and glacial soils to centuries-old traditions, these wines offer a taste of Italy’s mountain soul.

Check out our Nebbiolo Madenss tour for Nebbiolo lovers here!

Gattinara DOCG: The Elegance of Alto Piemonte’s Spanna Wines

by: Alexa

The Gattinara DOCG boasts ancient origins. It is believed that the first vineyards were planted by the Romans in the 2nd century BC.

Furthermore, historians believe that the town of Gattinara stands at the location where a Roman proconsul, Quintus Lutatius Catulus, sacrificed the war spoils of the defeated Cimbri people to the gods in the summer of 101 BC, near Vercelli. For this occasion, the 'Catuli Ara' was erected, from which both the town and the wine got their name.

It is also said that, in 1518, the wine was presented at the Spanish court by Cardinal Mercurino Arborio, Marquis of Gattinara and Chancellor to Charles V. The cardinal introduced it as a diplomatic bargaining tool, gaining success, and from that moment, Gattinara became known to the entire European nobility.

The DOCG was officially recognized in 1990, and production was limited to the unique territory of the town of Gattinara.

The town of Gattinara is located in the province of Vercelli. To the northwest of the town, there is a steep hill where the historic denomination is cultivated. The area is right at the center of the supervolcano's caldera. The soil is very acidic, with a thin terrain and poor humus content. The subsoil is made up of pure rock - caldera fill - of a brown color.

Spanna (Nebbiolo) and the DOCG Regulation

1. Gattinara DOCG mandates that the wines must be made with at least 90% Nebbiolo (locally called Spanna), with optional small percentages of:

• Vespolina (up to 4%) – adding spice and floral notes

• Uva Rara (Bonarda di Gattinara) (up to 10%) – softening the wine with fruitier, rounder flavors

Gattinara’s Unique Terroir and Spanna (Nebbiolo) Grapes

The Influence of Volcanic Soil

One of the defining characteristics of Gattinara DOCG is its volcanic soil. The region’s terrain consists of:

• Acidic, mineral-rich soil with very little humus

• Brown, rocky subsoil made from ancient volcanic caldera deposits

• Excellent drainage, which stresses the vines, leading to lower yields but highly concentrated grapes

These conditions contribute to Gattinara’s distinctive style—wines that are structured, austere, and incredibly age-worthy, often requiring time to fully develop their complexity.

Compared to Barolo and Barbaresco, Gattinara wines tend to be more mineral-driven, lighter in body, and higher in acidity, making them perfect for long-term aging.

How to Visit Gattinara: Travel Tips & Attractions

If you’re planning a wine tour in Alto Piemonte, Gattinara is an unmissable stop. Here’s everything you need to know to get there, where to stay, and what to do.

Getting to Gattinara

• By Car: Gattinara is about 1.5 hours from Milan and 1 hour from Turin. Renting a car is the best way to explore the region.

• By Train: The closest train station is in Romagnano Sesia, about 15 minutes from Gattinara by taxi.

• By Air: The nearest airports are Milan Malpensa (MXP) and Turin Caselle (TRN).

What to Do in Gattinara

• Visit Historic Wineries – Many producers offer guided tastings of their Gattinara DOCG wines. Some top wineries include:

• Antoniolo – One of the most famous and historic wineries in Gattinara

• Travaglini – Known for their unique bottle shape and traditional winemaking

• Hike to the Torre delle Castelle – A scenic medieval tower overlooking the vineyards

• Explore Alto Piemonte’s Wine Routes – Discover other nearby DOCGs like Ghemme, Bramaterra, Boca, and Lessona

• Dine on Local Cuisine – Try traditional dishes like Paniscia (a local risotto), Brasato al Gattinara (beef braised in Nebbiolo), and Toma cheese

For more details on custom Gattinara wine tours, check out our Nebbiolo Madenss tour here!

Alto Piemonte and Other Wines from the Mountains

When people think of Piedmontese wine, the mind usually jumps straight to Barolo and Barbaresco, nestled in the rolling hills of the Langhe. But today, I want to introduce you to one of the region’s most fascinating and underexplored wine areas: Alto Piemonte.

Located at the foot of the Alps, Alto Piemonte boasts a rich winemaking tradition, breathtaking alpine landscapes, and volcanic soils that create some of the most distinctive wines in northern Italy. It’s a hidden gem now experiencing a true renaissance, thanks to a passionate new generation of winemakers and a renewed appreciation for indigenous grape varieties like Spanna (the local name for Nebbiolo).

In this guide, we’ll explore the territory and the main wine denominations of Alto Piemonte, from Lessona to Boca and beyond.

The Territory of Alto Piemonte

Where is Alto Piemonte?

Alto Piemonte lies in the northern part of Piedmont, between the provinces of Novara, Vercelli, and Biella. The region is framed by Lake Maggiore to the west and the towering Monte Rosa massif to the north — a true guardian of these mountain vineyards.

A Supervolcano Shaped the Soil

One of the most extraordinary aspects of Alto Piemonte is its geological history. In 2009, geologists discovered a fossilized supervolcano in the Valsesia area, a massive caldera that collapsed around 278 million years ago. The collision between the African and European tectonic plates, which formed the Alps, also exposed the ancient magmatic system that now lies at the surface.

This means the soils here are acidic, mineral-rich, and almost completely free of limestone, unlike the marl, clay, and calcareous soils found in the Langhe. This unique terroir contributes to the freshness, minerality, and elegance of Alto Piemonte wines.

Historical Winemaking Roots

Viticulture in Alto Piemonte likely dates back to the Roman era. The region flourished during the Middle Ages under the stewardship of noble families, and by the 1800s, there were over 40,000 hectares of vineyards planted, primarily with Nebbiolo. Sadly, the area suffered a massive decline due to phylloxera and rural depopulation.

Now, thanks to dedicated winemakers who value sustainable practices and native grapes, Alto Piemonte wines are thriving again.

The Wines of Alto Piemonte

Let’s explore the main Alto Piemonte DOC and DOCG wine denominations — moving from west to east — and uncover the unique soils, grapes, and characteristics of each.

Note: Throughout this article, we’ll refer to Nebbiolo by its local name, Spanna.

Lessona DOC

Lessona, located in the province of Biella, sits on the outer edge of the ancient supervolcano’s influence. The sandy, marine sediment-rich soils with porphyry and mineral content make this one of the most elegant expressions of Spanna.

• DOC status: Since 1976

• Grapes: Minimum 85% Spanna; up to 15% Vespolina and/or Uva Rara

• Wine profile: Elegant and mineral, with soft tannins and floral notes of violet

Fun Fact: Quintino Sella, an Italian statesman, famously toasted with Lessona to the first unified Italian government in 1861.

Bramaterra DOC

Bramaterra has ancient origins tied to freed feudal serfs who began cultivating vines in this area. The name means “to yearn for the land” — a nod to its agricultural devotion.

• DOC status: Since 1979

• Grapes: 50–80% Spanna, up to 30% Croatina, up to 20% Vespolina and/or Uva Rara

• Soil: Porphyry, quartz, marine sediments, and rare limestone pockets

• Wine profile: Fruity, mineral, with firm structure and aging potential

This wine is made in seven municipalities near the Baragge Natural Park, beneath Monte Rosa.

Boca DOC

One of Alto Piemonte’s most intriguing wines, Boca comes from an area outside the caldera but still influenced by its geology. The soils are lean and rich in soft pink porphyry, giving the wines complexity and finesse.

• DOC status: Since 1969

• Grapes: 70–90% Spanna, up to 30% Vespolina and/or Uva Rara (Bonarda Novarese)

• Wine profile: Elegant, intense aromas, smooth tannins, and excellent age-worthiness

Boca wines are made from hillside vineyards around five villages, at altitudes of around 450 meters (1475 feet).

Sizzano DOC

Sizzano was a favorite of Count Cavour, who likened its bouquet to that of Burgundy and famously paired it with finanziera, a traditional Piedmontese dish.

• DOC status: Since 1969

• Grapes: 50–70% Spanna, 30–50% Vespolina and/or Uva Rara; up to 10% other local red grapes

• Soil: Pebbly subsoil beneath a thin clay layer

• Wine profile: Floral, structured, savory, with notes of violet

Fara DOC

Fara has been known since the Middle Ages as a wine of religious and noble significance. Its vineyards supported both monasteries and local economies.

• DOC status: Since 1969

• Grapes: 50–70% Spanna, up to 50% Vespolina and/or Uva Rara; 10% other red grapes allowed

• Wine profile: Approachable and fresh, with good structure and floral aromatics

Despite having a lower percentage of Nebbiolo compared to other Alto Piemonte wines, Fara is highly drinkable even when young — a perfect introduction for newcomers to the region.

Why Alto Piemonte Deserves Your Attention

The wines of Alto Piemonte represent a rare combination of volcanic soils, indigenous grapes, and alpine terroir. They offer a fresher, more mineral-driven expression of Nebbiolo, distinct from the powerful wines of Barolo or Barbaresco.

If you’re a wine lover seeking something new yet deeply rooted in Italian history, exploring Alto Piemonte is a must. Whether you’re sipping a refined Lessona or discovering the power of Boca, these wines tell a story of survival, identity, and transformation.

Plan a Visit to Alto Piemonte

Interested in visiting? Reach out to us for tailored wine tours through Alto Piemonte and other hidden gems of northern Italy. Discover small family-run wineries, scenic vineyards, and the magic of mountain-grown wines.

OR - Join me on our Nebbiolo Madenss tour, more info here!